Yellow Eyes and Ham Hocks

So often when I’m at the farmers market I suggest that my customers cook the beans simply. They often nod in agreement and say "I’ll just add a ham hock." This normally makes my heart sink a little . The real glory of heirloom bean varieties is their flavor. A smoked ham hock is full of old fashioned goodness, I’m sure, but it’s completely unnecessary with most of the varieties we grow. I love pork and I like a lot of smoked things (although I am beginning to tire of everything being smoked) but in general I suggest saving it for something else or as an occasional change.

My turn for a change came the other night. If there is one bean that belongs with a ham hock it’s the Yellow Eye. It’s wonderful on it’s own but the pork  is a natural partner, whether it’s leftover ham, a ham hock or a ham shank. One taste and for me it’s pure nostalgia for a type of cooking my mother rarely did. My ham hock came from The Fatted Calf.

To make the beans, add soaked beans to a large pot. The add chopped aromatics like garlic, onion, celery and/or carrot. Finally add the ham hock. Bring to a hard boil for about 2 or 3 minutes and then reduce to low. I used soaked beans and they cooked in just over an hour, but budget for two hours. When the beans are soft, remove the ham hock and salt the beans, testing as you go as some ham hocks are very salty. Remove and discard the fat from the ham hock  and then chop up any meat and return it to the pot. I add the bone back for good measure.

The beans are smoky and delicious and incredibly rich from the pork fat that renders from the ham hock. If you want a creamier pot, remove a cup, blend it and then add it back to the pot.

Bean and Masa Patties

I was looking at a Spanish-language recipe for Gorditas and I’m confident I have no idea what I was reading. But I never let these details stop me so I plowed ahead in my kitchen to make a really nice treat.

The dough was about 2/3 masa (you could make your own from masa harina powder if you don’t have access to fresh masa) and 1/3 mashed black beans. I had some good beans and I didn’t think I needed to fry them for this recipe so I just put the in the blender. I mixed up the wet, messy dough and tried to make small patties that were then fried in oil. I have a small cast iron skillet that doesn’t take too much oil and could do two patties at a time. After they were cooked, I drained them on paper toweling and salted.

Once they were all done, I grated a wee bit of jack cheese and added a big dollop of tomatillo salsa.

Obviously, anything deep fried is going to be at least halfway good but these were great. The beans kept the dough really moist and it was no problem working through half a dozen of these.

Omelet with Cellini Beans and White Cheddar

We’ve been sampling Cellini runner beans at the farmers market and I always manage to save an extra cup or so for me to use at home. This morning I made an omelet and the filling was a few spoonfuls of the drained beans and a big handful of grated Vintage white cheddar cheese, from the Point Reyes Cheese Company. It was a winner. 

Cakebread Cellars’ Duck Pot Pie

One of
my favorite wineries here in the Napa Valley is Cakebread Cellars. Brian
Streeter runs the kitchens and co-authored the seminal Cakebread Cellars Napa
Valley Cookbook. More than almost any other book, I think this one really helps
define Napa cuisine.

Brian came up with this challenging but delicious twist on the classic
pot pie. It’s a special event dish but well worth the bother.

 

Cakebread
Cellars’Duck Pot Pie with Good Mother Stallards and Kale

8 oz.
Rancho Gordo Good Mother Stallard beans
1
carrot, peeled and roughly chopped
½
onion, cut into four wedges
1 stalk
celery, roughly chopped
1 bay
leaf
2 tsp.
salt
6 duck
legs, boned and diced
1 small
onion, diced
1
carrot, diced
1 stalk
celery, diced
1 tsp.
tomato paste
1 c.
white wine
2 c.
chicken stock
1 tsp.
fresh thyme, picked
1 bay
leaf
2
bunches cavelo nero*
salt
and pepper
1 lb.
frozen puff pastry
½ c.
flour
1 egg,
beaten

Pick
through beans to make sure there are no stones. Soak overnight in cold water to
cover.

Preheat
oven to 350°F. Pour the beans and water into a large saucepan. Add the chopped
vegetables and bay leaf. Bring to a boil. Reduce to a low simmer and cook until
beans are tender, about 45 minutes to an hour. Add salt and allow beans to cool
in their own broth.

Meanwhile,
heat a wide bottom skillet over high heat. Season the diced duck with salt and
pepper. Add the olive oil to the pan along with the duck. Sear on all sides
until brown. Remove from the pan and add the onion, carrots and celery. Saute
until vegetables are soft. Stir in the tomato paste and deglaze the pan with
the white wine, scraping the bottom to release any of the brown glaze on the
bottom of the pan. Reduce until wine is almost evaporated.

Return
the duck to the pan with the thyme and bay leaf. Cover and place in the middle
of the preheated oven. Cook for one hour until the duck is tender.

Puree
one cup of the beans with enough of the broth from the duck to make a smooth
puree. Add to the duck stew along with the remaining beans. Cut out the stems
from the cavelo nero. Roughly chop it and blanch in boiling water until wilted
and bright green. Drain and run under cold water to stop the cooking. Squeeze
out all the water and stir into the braised duck. Continue cooking for another
15 minutes.

Allow
the puff pastry to come to room temperature. On a lightly floured surface, roll
the pastry out to an 1/8” thickness. Using the bowls or cups that you plan on
serving the pot pie in as a guide, cut out circles from the pastry about an
inch wider in diameter.

Raise
the oven temperature to 400°F. Ladle the stew into the serving bowl and lightly
brush the rim with the beaten egg. Drape the puff pastry over the top and press
to seal around the edges. Brush the pastry with beaten egg and set on a sheet
pan. Place in the middle of the preheated oven. Bake until pastry is golden
brown, about 10-12 minutes.

Enjoy
with a glass of Cakebread Cellars Syrah.

**Cavelo
nero is a type of kale popular in Italy. If unavailable substitute another
variety of kale.

Cakebread Cellars’ Duck Pot Pie

One of
my favorite wineries here in the Napa Valley is Cakebread Cellars. Brian
Streeter runs the kitchens and co-authored the seminal Cakebread Cellars Napa
Valley Cookbook. More than almost any other book, I think this one really helps
define Napa cuisine.

Brian came up with this challenging but delicious twist on the classic
pot pie. It’s a special event dish but well worth the bother.

 

Cakebread
Cellars’Duck Pot Pie with Good Mother Stallards and Kale

8 oz.
Rancho Gordo Good Mother Stallard beans
1
carrot, peeled and roughly chopped
½
onion, cut into four wedges
1 stalk
celery, roughly chopped
1 bay
leaf
2 tsp.
salt
6 duck
legs, boned and diced
1 small
onion, diced
1
carrot, diced
1 stalk
celery, diced
1 tsp.
tomato paste
1 c.
white wine
2 c.
chicken stock
1 tsp.
fresh thyme, picked
1 bay
leaf
2
bunches cavelo nero*
salt
and pepper
1 lb.
frozen puff pastry
½ c.
flour
1 egg,
beaten

Pick
through beans to make sure there are no stones. Soak overnight in cold water to
cover.

Preheat
oven to 350°F. Pour the beans and water into a large saucepan. Add the chopped
vegetables and bay leaf. Bring to a boil. Reduce to a low simmer and cook until
beans are tender, about 45 minutes to an hour. Add salt and allow beans to cool
in their own broth.

Meanwhile,
heat a wide bottom skillet over high heat. Season the diced duck with salt and
pepper. Add the olive oil to the pan along with the duck. Sear on all sides
until brown. Remove from the pan and add the onion, carrots and celery. Saute
until vegetables are soft. Stir in the tomato paste and deglaze the pan with
the white wine, scraping the bottom to release any of the brown glaze on the
bottom of the pan. Reduce until wine is almost evaporated.

Return
the duck to the pan with the thyme and bay leaf. Cover and place in the middle
of the preheated oven. Cook for one hour until the duck is tender.

Puree
one cup of the beans with enough of the broth from the duck to make a smooth
puree. Add to the duck stew along with the remaining beans. Cut out the stems
from the cavelo nero. Roughly chop it and blanch in boiling water until wilted
and bright green. Drain and run under cold water to stop the cooking. Squeeze
out all the water and stir into the braised duck. Continue cooking for another
15 minutes.

Allow
the puff pastry to come to room temperature. On a lightly floured surface, roll
the pastry out to an 1/8” thickness. Using the bowls or cups that you plan on
serving the pot pie in as a guide, cut out circles from the pastry about an
inch wider in diameter.

Raise
the oven temperature to 400°F. Ladle the stew into the serving bowl and lightly
brush the rim with the beaten egg. Drape the puff pastry over the top and press
to seal around the edges. Brush the pastry with beaten egg and set on a sheet
pan. Place in the middle of the preheated oven. Bake until pastry is golden
brown, about 10-12 minutes.

Enjoy
with a glass of Cakebread Cellars Syrah.

**Cavelo
nero is a type of kale popular in Italy. If unavailable substitute another
variety of kale.

Rancho Gordo Chili con Carne

Among chili aficionados,
your answer to the question of "beans or no beans" can earn you disdain or
respect. I love beans in my chili but I also dislike that thick, stodgy mess
made from mostly beans that is called "chili con carne" on the labels of cans
and in certain regions of our fair country. The star should be the chiles,
either from pods or ground to a powder. Even the meat (in this case some
delicious chuck roast I got from Doug Stonebreaker of Prather Ranch Meat Co.) takes a
back seat, as do the wonderful Good
Mother Stallard beans.

A note on spelling: The pods are
called chiles. The dish is called Chili. When you see Chile Powder, you should
expect it to be 100% ground chiles. If you are buying Chili Powder, there’s a
better than good chance there will be spices and herbs added.

Rancho Gordo Chili con
Carne

¼ cup olive oil
2-3 pounds chuck
roast, cut into ½ to 1 inch cubes
2 white onions, chopped
4-6 cloves
garlic
1 tablespoon Rancho
Gordo Mexican Oregano
½ cup Rancho
Gordo New Mexican Red Chile Powder
1 teaspoon cumin, ground
salt
3
cups water
1 bottle Negra Modelo (or other dark beer)
1 cup Rancho
Gordo Good Mother Stallard beans, cooked and drained
1 tablespoon of Masa
Harina (optional)

In a stock pot, heat the oil and
brown the meat pieces. Remove as they brown. When all the pieces are browned and
seared, lower the heat and sauté the onions and garlic until soft. Then add the
oregano, chile powder, cumin and salt. Fry the spices for a few minutes and then
slowly add the water and then the beer. Bring to a boil and then reduce heat to
low. Add the meat back to the pot and allow to simmer gently for about 2 hours,
stirring occasionally.

Add the beans. Cook for another 10
minutes or so.

The texture should be somewhat
soupy but if the liquid is too thin, dissolve the masa harina in about ½ a cup
of water. Stir well to avoid any lumps. Slowly trickle the liquid into the
chili. Cook on low for another 15 minutes or so. This step adds a nice
"nixtamal" flavor and you can choose to do it even if you like the texture,
noting that it will dilute the chile flavor somewhat.

Ladle out hot with garnishes of raw
chopped onion, chopped cilantro, chile powder, etc.,
Serve with hot flour
tortillas, buttermilk biscuits or your favorite cornbread.

Lamb and Flageolet from the Pacific Northwest

You meet a lot of great people online (and some real nut-jobs) and one of my favorite online friends, Leslie, has really outdone herself with her version of lamb with flageolet. I’m hoping it becomes more of a Spring tradition, making more sense than a funky old canned ham for Easter

Here’s Leslie’s Braised Lamb recipe.
– Steve

My Braised Lamb with Flageolet Beans dish is from a combination of
recipes including from Sara Moulton ~ Foodnetwork/Gourmet, Patricia
Wells ~ Bistro Cooking/Le Perraudin’s Braised Lamb with White Beans,
and Spring Lamb and Flageolet ~ Rancho Gordo’s site. I used Heirloom
Flageolets from Rancho Gordo, which had a creamy texture that paired
well with the lamb.

Braised Lamb with Flageolet Beans

Beans:

1 pound Rancho Gordo flageolet beans (soaked 4-6 hours)
2 small carrots, chopped fine
2 celery stalks, chopped fine
1 med. sweet onion, chopped fine
3 cloves garlic, minced fine
2 cups chicken broth
water
2 T butter
couple sprigs of thyme (optional)
1 bay leaf
salt
pepper

Prepare
the beans: After soaking beans (4-6 hours), drain and place in a dutch
oven. Add the mirepoix (chopped carrots, celery, onion, garlic), herbs,
broth, butter and enough water to cover by an inch or so. Bring to a
boil, then reduce heat, cover and simmer until tender, but not mushy,
about an hour, adding additional water (heated to boiling) as needed to
keep beans covered while cooking. When done remove bay leaf. Beans can
be prepared the day ahead.

Lamb:

4-5 lbs Lamb shoulder chops (arm and blade chops, supplemented with neck also, if available)
salt and freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 onion, chopped coarse
3 carrots, chopped coarse
2 celery ribs, chopped coarse
4 garlic cloves, chopped coarse
4 cups red wine
6 cups chicken broth
2 tablespoon tomato paste
a few fresh thyme sprigs

To
make the lamb: Heat oil over medium-high heat in an 8 qt heavy pan (ie.
wide Calphalon dutch oven). Salt and pepper the lamb. When the oil is
hot but not smoking, brown lamb in batches, without crowding,
transferring to a plate as browned. To pan add onion, carrot, celery,
and garlic and saute until onion is softened. Return lamb to pan and
add wine, broth, tomato paste and thyme. Bring liquid to a boil, then
reduce heat and simmer, covered, stirring and turning lamb occasionally
for 1 hour or so. Uncover and simmer until meat is tender, another 1/2
hour or so.

Transfer meat to a plate and keep warm (you can take
the meat off the bones if you like), covered with foil. Strain the
braising liquid, and skim off fat. Pour the skimmed braising liquid
into a pan and reduce until thickened, stirring occasionally. Season
with salt and pepper.

To serve, spoon the sauce over the lamb
and beans. Sprinkle with Gremolata. ( or Fay’s Relish, using chopped
cilantro, recipe on RG’s site).

Gremolata:
6 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley leaves (preferably flat-leafed)
2 teaspoons freshly grated lemon zest
4 garlic cloves, minced

Modern Chilaquiles

And the chilaquiles discussion continues. Food snobs may be horrified but the hungry will be satisfied. My travelling buddy Christopher Ann offers this quick variation on the classic dish with no apolgies and no regrets. Still, if the Fritos thing is too much, there’s always Rancho Gordo brand Thick-Cut Handmade Tortilla Chips if you live in the Bay Area.  – Steve

I got my recipe for chilaquiles from a Mexican friend,
a housewife, in Querétaro.  My daughter went for a visit a while back and,
although I had asked for the recipe many times, I always got the typical "home
cooking recipe" answer: "Oh, just a little of this and a little of that. I can
no say exactamente, it is the recipe de mi mamá y mi abuelita (little
grandmother)." 

I told my daughter she was to go into Lita’s kitchen and
not come back out until she knew how to make them. 

I am
including here an excerpt from an email my daughter sent to me during her stay
in Querétaro. 

"Mom,
I am staying at Jaime’s mother’s house that is close to downtown Querétaro.  She
is wonderful….and calls me ‘mija.’  I love that.  I want to be a Mexican
grandmother. They hug on you and kiss your cheeks, and make such good food and
call everyone Mi Amor, or Mi Vida or Mija. It is so cute!"

So, anyway, mi
amiga Lita, has four children.  The family eats chilaquiles for breakfast at
least three or four mornings a week, so Lita has to be able to make it fast.
And she does.  This is how she does it: 

CHILAQUILES:

Salsa
verde (tomatilla sauce); torn stale and fried tortilla chips (Lita uses Fritos
and told me not to laugh before I tried it and I didn’t and I did and she’s
right, they work just fine); queso manchego (or asadero, or ranchero, or fresco,
or any other Mexican white cheese that you like); and sour cream. 

In
bottom of microwaveable dish, spread a little tomatilla sauce, then layer of
Fritos, then more sauce, then sour cream, then "bastante queso."  Repeat, until
dish is full or ingredients are all used up, finishing with cheese.  Microwave
one minute, or till chilaquilesare heated through and cheese is melted.  You’ll
probably have to experiment a time or two in order to get all of the proportions
just right.

TOMATILLO SAUCE: 
1 tsp or so cooking oil (just enough to cover
botton of saucepan)
6 or so whole tomatillos, paper skins removed

jalepeños, or other chile peppers, to desired "pica"
water to
cover
Put tomatillos and chiles in saucepan and water, just to barely cover.
Bring to boil and cook just till tomatillos are soft (not too long, don’t want
them "mushy").  Put tomatillos and peppers (do not discard cooking water) into
blender or food processor along with:
2 small cloves garlic
1 tsp
salt
1/4 cup chopped onion
"handful" cilantro
2 tsp "caldo de pollo"
(which I interpret to mean powdered chicken boullion, but I don’t know for
sure…should have asked, but never did…that’s what I add and it comes out
fine)

Blend in food processor very well.  Add cooking water to reach
desired "sauce" consistancy…you want it fairly liquid, but flavorful and not
"watered-down" tasting, so use your own judgment.

Note:  if you want a
smokey flavor to your tomatillo sauce, you can roast all the veggies instead of
boiling them.

Lorna Sass’ Posole with Pork and Chipotle

I have the feeling that in a previous life Lorna Sass and I had some kind of oddball vaudeville routine. From the minute I met her, I felt like our timing was in synch and I was reuniting with an old pal. She very well may have this effect on everyone but I’m choosing to believe I’m special!
Sass is mostly known for her seminal books on pressure cooking but lately she’s really opened up my eyes to the world of interesting grains beyond wheat. Of course this includes lots of New World grains like quinoa and amaranth so I’m more than interested. Her latest book, Whole Grains Every Day Every Way, is a winner and includes the following recipe.

Lorna Sass visits glamorous Rancho Gordo!

Posole With Pork and Chipotle

2 cups Rancho Gordo posole (prepared hominy)
1 pound pork shoulder, trimmed and cut into 1 1/2 inch cubes
salt and freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion diced
2 large cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 1/2 teaspoons dried Oregano
2 large bay leaves
1 pork bone (optional)
2 cups crushed tomatoes in tomato puree
1 to 2 chipotles in adobo, membranes and seeds removed, finely minced, plus 1/2 teaspoon adobo sauce
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro for garnish (optional)
Whole trimmed radishes, for serving (optional)

• Soak the hominy overnight in 12 cups (3 quarts) of water. Drain, reserving liquid.
• Season the pork well with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a heavy 4-quart pot over high heat. Brown the pork well in three to four batches (making sure not to crowd the pot), 2 to 3 minutes on each side. As you finish each batch, transfer it to a platter and set aside.
• Reduce the heat to medium high. If there is fat in the pan, spoon off all but 1 tablespoon. Add the onion and cook, stirring frequently, until lightly browned, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and tomato paste and cook, stirring constantly for an additional minute.
• Stir in 8 cups (2 quarts) of the hominy soaking liquid, the soaked hominy, oregano, bay leaves and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Add the pork bone (if using). Over high heat, bring the mixture almost to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover and simmer for 1 hour. Stir in the tomatoes, chipotle and adobo sauce, and the browned pork, along with any juices accumulated on the platter. Set the cover slightly off center and continue simmering until the pork is fork-tender and the hominy is done (it will be chewy but the center should be soft and somewhat creamy), an additional 45 minutes to 1 1/2 hours. Skim off any fat that rises to the surface. Add more hominy soaking liquid or water if the mixture becomes too thick and threatens to stick to the bottom of the pot.
• Remove the pork bone and bay leaves. Adjust the seasoning. Serve in large bowls. Garnish individual bowls with cilantro and serve a bowl of radishes for accompaniment.

Lorna Sass’ Posole with Pork and Chipotle

I have the feeling that in a previous life Lorna Sass and I had some kind of oddball vaudeville routine. From the minute I met her, I felt like our timing was in synch and I was reuniting with an old pal. She very well may have this effect on everyone but I’m choosing to believe I’m special!
Sass is mostly known for her seminal books on pressure cooking but lately she’s really opened up my eyes to the world of interesting grains beyond wheat. Of course this includes lots of New World grains like quinoa and amaranth so I’m more than interested. Her latest book, Whole Grains Every Day Every Way, is a winner and includes the following recipe.

Lorna Sass visits glamorous Rancho Gordo!

Posole With Pork and Chipotle

2 cups Rancho Gordo posole (prepared hominy)
1 pound pork shoulder, trimmed and cut into 1 1/2 inch cubes
salt and freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion diced
2 large cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 1/2 teaspoons dried Oregano
2 large bay leaves
1 pork bone (optional)
2 cups crushed tomatoes in tomato puree
1 to 2 chipotles in adobo, membranes and seeds removed, finely minced, plus 1/2 teaspoon adobo sauce
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro for garnish (optional)
Whole trimmed radishes, for serving (optional)

• Soak the hominy overnight in 12 cups (3 quarts) of water. Drain, reserving liquid.
• Season the pork well with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a heavy 4-quart pot over high heat. Brown the pork well in three to four batches (making sure not to crowd the pot), 2 to 3 minutes on each side. As you finish each batch, transfer it to a platter and set aside.
• Reduce the heat to medium high. If there is fat in the pan, spoon off all but 1 tablespoon. Add the onion and cook, stirring frequently, until lightly browned, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and tomato paste and cook, stirring constantly for an additional minute.
• Stir in 8 cups (2 quarts) of the hominy soaking liquid, the soaked hominy, oregano, bay leaves and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Add the pork bone (if using). Over high heat, bring the mixture almost to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover and simmer for 1 hour. Stir in the tomatoes, chipotle and adobo sauce, and the browned pork, along with any juices accumulated on the platter. Set the cover slightly off center and continue simmering until the pork is fork-tender and the hominy is done (it will be chewy but the center should be soft and somewhat creamy), an additional 45 minutes to 1 1/2 hours. Skim off any fat that rises to the surface. Add more hominy soaking liquid or water if the mixture becomes too thick and threatens to stick to the bottom of the pot.
• Remove the pork bone and bay leaves. Adjust the seasoning. Serve in large bowls. Garnish individual bowls with cilantro and serve a bowl of radishes for accompaniment.